In this post I am dealing with a large area. So to avoid any potential confusion, I’m going to talk about the parks surrounding the stadium.
The World Cup Park was built for the 17th FIFA World Cup in 2002. The tournament was co-hosted between Korea and Japan, this stadium is very much a flagship stadium for football in Korea. Many sports tournaments are famous for leaving white elephants dotted around provincial parts of the host nations. However, in Korea there has been a very specific policy of using such tournaments to spearhead development, or redevelopment of neglected or underused areas. A less ambitious planning policy would have used the stadia and facilities of the Olympic park in Seoul for the World Cup but in their wisdom, the planners of the World Cup of 2002 used the competition as an opportunity to develop the trash mountain on the western edge of Seoul.
Development is perhaps a misleading word as it conjures up images of large apartment complexes, mega malls and vast conference halls – the norm for most Korean cities. World Cup Park does have such facilities, including the usual wedding hall, Homeplus supermarket, cinema and gym/jjimjilbang, but they are surrounded by the parks which have transformed a 15-year-old landfill site. It took them 6 years to stabilize the waste and an extra year to build the park itself. The park is located between Seoul World Cup stadium and the river Han. Park should really be plural as it’s made up of five smaller parks including the Pyeonghwa ‘Peace’ Park, Haneul ‘Sky’ Park, and Noeul ‘Sunset’ Park.
The Pyeonghwa Park is joined to the World Cup Stadium by a large pedestrian bridge. It’s the easiest to reach from the subway station and there is a pond with fountain, gardens, children’s playground, and forest. If you are a lazy picnic planner there is also the ubiquitous coffee shop and convenience store with ramen by the crate. It seems to be popular with in-line skaters.
The Nanjicheon Park and Nanji Hangang Park were recreated from the Nanji Stream, which was once a sewage runoff from the landfill. You can find it next to the river Han, it’s separated from the main park by the express way. It contains an outdoor stage and various sports facilities. You can also camp here, but it doesn’t seem too far from the trappings of the city. Perhaps if you are not ready for a true wilderness experience you may want to choose this location. If you go camping to escape civilization this may not be the best location for you!
Haneul Park is the highest part of the whole area – hence the name Skypark. If you approach from the stadium side you need to scale a zigzag staircase to reach the walkway into the park. The stairs look intimidating but they are quite an easy climb. For some reason you cannot enter the park from the eastern side so you have to walk round another path to get to the entrance. If you are flagging there is a small bus. Despite being a flat riverbank area the mountain of waste has created one of the best views in Seoul. It’s flat on the top and gives a panoramic view over western Seoul and you can also see the mountains of Bukhansan too. The flat top is covered with grasses and wild flowers. The small office ha displays showing how they reclaimed the area. If you needed a visual clue for how they achieved this you will find it in the numerous methane pipes throughout the park. They also have a well hidden methane power station located next to the park.
The last park is Noeul Park. This is furthest away from the stadium and World Cup Stadium subway station, although you could probably get there easily enough from Suraek station if you wanted to avoid trailing through the other parks.There is a 9-hole golf course and more converted landfill. The park is a useful breathing space between some of the new developments of Digital Media City. They have started constructing another huge skyscraper nearby. Being further away from the built up areas and further to the west, it is perhaps the best area to see the sunset and to get more peace.
I have been to this area a few times and I never get bored. If you are visiting Seoul for a few days then I think it’s a worthwhile visit. If you live in Korea it’s a must see, especially if the wild flowers are blooming. Another option is if you are planning on seeing a game at the stadium, in which case you could turn it into an entire day.
Getting there:
by subway – World Cup Stadium Station (Subway Line 6), Exit 1 or 2. (Mapo-gucheong and Digital Media City are also nearby.)
by bus -Get off at the Seoul World Cup Stadium Blue 271, 571 Green 6715, 7714, 7715 Red 9711
The Happy Wanderer 